training for climbing

climbing training is at a crossroads. the list of theories, coaches, and protocols is dizzying. “there are a lot of coaches still employing outdated training strategies that are based on dogma more than science,” says eric hörst, the author of training for climbing, which is now in its third edition. “this era feels similar to how it was for me as a high school runner in the early 1990s,” says mark anderson, co-author of the rock climber’s training manual. the little scientific study occurring at that time was typically done informally, or at least not very rigorously, and the ‘researchers’ were testing their own theories on a small group of their own athletes.” this is certainly true of climbing. this concept has led to the development of the most-used training exercises for our sport, including the hangboard, campus board, and 4×4 workouts.

no matter your training plan, the key to success is sticking to it. almost any training will work as long as you are dedicated, and the longer you can maintain that commitment, the more you’ll improve. local endurance is the ability to stay on the wall for a longer period of time and to climb easy terrain without getting pumped. read the full article. read the full article. read the full article. read the full article.

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